Things like mirror heat are just one/off. For example, with my driving lights I'll have the option to have them on with the high beams or the low beams or have them off. I think that most of my switches are going to be DPDT so that I have an option of how to set the function and I have one set of contacts to handle illumination. I'm buying these parts to get a start because its convenient. I haven't finalized my switch list yet nor have I figured out which switch covers (actuators) I am going to use. I bought some switch bodies from Digikey. See the documents attached to the next post for more into. The transmissions they went on were not terribly popular and the parts guys will be pretty confused until you explain things to them because they are all used to air type knobs. If you order them you have to be sure to get the whole knob assembly with the lower part, not just a switch kit. It has the cruise control buttons and an electronic range shift button just like the air range shift buttons. It was for an electronic range shift transmission they built for a while. Meritor builds another interesting shift knob. I might actually fool around with building an ESS system for complete clutchless shifting. I always found it very cumbersome to shift the transmission and get the truck to the right speed and then have to fumble around with the buttons on the steering wheel to get the cruise set. The knob buttons are backlit so that you can see them in the dark. The knob also has cruise control buttons built into it so that cruise can be controlled from the shifter. Press Up means the driver wants to break torque to get the transmission out of gear. The other is a 4 position rocker switch that the driver used to run the ESS system. One is an on/off button to turn the ESS system on and off. The shift knob is from a Meritor ESS equipped 10 speed transmission. I have ordered an 06+ shifter boot assembly because it is larger, will probably fit the bracket better and is much better designed. The new bracket is just a tiny bit big to fit under the '99 to 04 shifter boot. The shift knob would work with the lever at the stock angle, but its easier to accidentally bump the switches when shifting then. I think it will be much nicer to use a straighter shift lever with the new shift knob. I'll be cutting mine off to make it shorter. The stock shifter is a bit long when you stand it up. As a bonus, it brings the shifter closer to the driver. It then nicely clears the auto F650 panel. It moves the base of the gear shift back about 5 inches and stands it up straighter. I made a bracket that goes between the ZF6 shift stub and the stock gear shift. I can still put it in Reverse and first, but not third or OD. On my truck the stock auto F650 panel doesn't interfere with the ZF6 stick very much. The shift tower on my ZF6 just clears the back of the shifter cutout in the floor. On my truck, due to the Cummins swap, the transmission is moved back about 1.5 inches. The auto F650 panel does interfere with the stock ZF6 shifter.
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